iSimangaliso Safari

iSimangaliso must be the only place on the globe where the oldest land mammal (the rhinoceros) and the world’s biggest terrestrial mammal (the elephant) share an ecosystem with the world’s oldest fish (the coelacanth) and the world’s biggest marine
mammal (the whale)

Nelson Mandela

One translation of the Zulu word isimangaliso is 'a marvel'. Another translates it as a 'miracle and wonder' and indeed, it is. 

iSimangaliso Wetland Park is one of South Africa’s most amazing natural treasures and became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999, part of a huge nature reserve shared by South Africa, Swaziland and Mozambique. I've visited some of this area before but not for many, many years and it was so lovely to go again in the company of some of my family, including my brother, who's a qualified game ranger and was, therefore, quite useful to have along (okay, he's quite good company too! ;)

The wetland park hosts a variety of ecological marvels, including long sandy beaches, swamps, savannas, grasslands, dunes (including the 2nd largest vegetated dune in the world), lakes and reed wetlands. The extensive and unique combination of ecological diversity is apparently because of its location in a transition zone between subtropical and tropical Africa. The wildlife is abundant and to see them all in their natural habitats... such a pleasure.

Giant leatherback turtles are a common sight on the beaches at the right times of the year (we didn't see any but I am definitely going back for that - it's on the list!) and the area is a migration route for whale sharks, whales and dolphins (my brother and I have had the privilege of swimming and diving with these). There are over 900 hippo in the reserve (I think we saw about 850 of them) and a large population of African Nile crocodiles, currently around 1500 we were told (we saw seven. That was plenty for me - creepy!).

It's hard to even begin to capture the beauty and magic of this place or its residents and my little camera and I and were woefully unequal to the task but I thought I'd share some of what we managed anyway. It's one of those places that really has to be experienced to be truly appreciated and at times I forgot to even lift my lens and was entirely content to just absorb it and be absorbed by it.

Beautiful mosaic map in the ranger station

Some of the aforementioned beaches - sand like soft brown sugar, warm air, Indian Ocean

Binoculars - invaluable!

First hippo sighting, as we sat down to lunch... no binoc's required, she was that close

More hippo... grazing.
Usually more of a nocturnal activity so we were lucky to see as many out.
Cloud cover - great stuff for game watching!

One of the best ways to get close to the inhabitants of a wetland park... is by boat

More hippo... doing what hippo do best

Consider yourself warned!

Casually wandering along the road... Big Five crew. 

These guys are scary fierce - best to keep one's distance

Magnificent kudu...

...enjoying a roadside snack

So close I could have touched her

Some of our most interesting sightings were not Big Five, or even very big, although by beetle standards, this is one of the largest - a dung beetle

Golden Orb spiders - waaayyy too many of these around for my liking - harmless but huge!

Iridescent beauty - as small as my fingernail (yes, that is dung in the top right - saw lots of that!)

Crested Guinea Fowl - this shot really doesn't do their beautiful plumage justice

Whereas I think this one is improved by the blur! (Thanks BG :)

Fading light... so peaceful!